Rediscovering Atlantic City: A Journey Through its Vibrant Gay Scene
Atlantic City was undergoing a dramatic transformation. Gambling had recently been legalized, and the city was shedding its old skin for something decidedly more… flamboyant. Grand old hotels from the 1920s were either being meticulously restored or, more often, demolished to make way for glittering new casinos.
While not quite reaching the neon heights of Las Vegas, these new establishments were a far cry from the Art Deco elegance of the Boardwalk Empire era.
Neighborhoods were gentrifying at a rapid pace. Entire blocks were razed, modest motels were reborn as chic condos, and an air of constant, buzzing activity permeated the city.
I felt an immediate, profound connection to Atlantic City. It was as if we were both on a parallel journey, searching for and building new identities for the world to see.
Finding My Place in a Changing City
My father, a man of construction, was instrumental in this rebirth, remodeling former summer homes and apartment buildings into year-round residences.
Meanwhile, I found myself enrolled at Atlantic City High School, beginning to navigate my new life in this small, yet rapidly burgeoning, seaside city. Admission required an application, and I felt incredibly fortunate to be accepted.
There was one class in particular that truly engaged me.
It was a welcome respite from the daily anxieties I faced. By this point, my identity had become an open secret, and the bullying was relentless. The walk between classes felt like a gauntlet, a constant barrage of teasing and intimidation. But this particular class offered a sanctuary.
I reveled in the discussions, finding a temporary escape from the dread that awaited me outside the classroom door.
One day, during a lively roundtable discussion, the topic of homosexuality surfaced. I remember instinctively tensing up, my guard immediately going on high alert.
This was a subject that could easily amplify the misery of my school days. A whirlwind of questions erupted in my mind:
- What do you mean?
- There are gay people right here in the city?
- Is that where they live?
- How do you know?
- What do they do on New York Avenue?
Curiosity consumed me.
My entire focus shifted to the end of the school day and the journey on the jitney bus. New York Avenue was only six blocks from my home. How had I not known? I had been living so close all this time. Today, I was finally going to find my people!
A Street Alive with Possibility
My sense of wonder began almost immediately.
Even before I had walked a few yards down the street, I could tell this area was different from the rest of the city. There was a palpable sense of flamboyance, an undeniable trendiness in everyone's attire, and yes, there were drag queens!
As people emerged from the apartment buildings, their dress and demeanor screamed gay pride.
I was struck by how utterly at ease they were. Witnessing individuals so comfortable in their own skin was a rarity, especially during those formative years.
It was a revelation.
Continuing my exploration, I passed the venerable Rendezvous Lounge. Its unlit neon sign still glowed with a welcoming warmth. A group exited, drinks in hand, making their way down the avenue towards the Boardwalk, arms linked, hands held.
Further along, the Front Porch restaurant, with its expansive glass windows, revealed a scene of mostly male couples dining and drinking together.
To the right of the Chester, a small outdoor bar called the Puka Lani beckoned with its tropical theme and a tiny pool where men were swimming and sipping drinks.
Beneath the Chester Inn, the Chester Lounge hinted at mystery, its sign alone piquing my curiosity about what lay within.
These establishments showcased music videos and concerts, offering a space for dancing. It might sound dated now, but in the early 1980s, it was cutting-edge.
People gathered on their porches, calling out greetings to one another and to those on the street, their friendships visible and vibrant.
Towards the end of the street, set back from the curb, sat the original Saratoga, a small bar presided over by an imposing man seated in a folding chair.
This would, ironically, become the very first gay bar where I would perform. I had already heard whispers about this club; it was one of the biggest venues around, attracting everyone, even my father.
While considered a straight club, the Saratoga was an early testament to Atlantic City's evolving integration.
Gay and straight patrons mingled, danced, and enjoyed themselves. My father would recount humorous stories of men attempting to pick him up, always with a laugh. As I stood on the ramp leading to the Saratoga, men passed by me, some scantily clad in thongs and headbands, others in frayed, fringed t-shirts and cut-off shorts.
Their destination was clear: the Illinois Avenue beach, situated in front of the Claridge Hotel.
This was traditionally the gay beach, and back then, it was exclusively gay! They paraded with an undeniable spirit, a liberating display of our community - out, loud, and undeniably proud, in impressive numbers.
Back down the street, I turned into Westminster Alley, more famously known as Snake Alley for its winding turns.
By the time I arrived in Atlantic City, it was a modest dive bar. However, as I soon discovered, it boasted the most incredible jukebox, stocked with every song imaginable.
A little further up and across the street stood the Grand Central Resort, a complex housing multiple bars, a rooming house, and a hotel.
I still possess my Grand Central wooden token from my single visit, as the establishment tragically burned down the weekend after my first and only time there.
Snake Alley itself was lined with rooming houses, much like New York Avenue, again primarily occupied by gay residents.
Returning to Pacific Avenue, I found that the apartment blocks along this stretch were also predominantly gay-occupied. The Coffee Mill, a charming breakfast nook on the corner of Kentucky Avenue, served as another popular gay hangout, with more establishments dotted around Mt.
Sojourner.
In those days, the Six catered primarily to the lesbian community, only expanding and transforming after Studio 5 succumbed to a fire. Walking through the area now, I see only echoes of those vibrant people, buildings, and clubs. Yet, as the Chez Paree demonstrated over 40 years ago, Atlantic City has always held a welcoming embrace for everyone, gay or straight.
What was once a few concentrated blocks of comfort has blossomed.
Today, I witness LGBTQ+ individuals holding hands openly along the world-famous Atlantic City Boardwalk, dancing together in all the clubs, and sharing my beloved town with a newfound freedom and visibility.
The Evolving Landscape of AC's LGBTQ+ Scene
The city continues to evolve, with new venues emerging to serve the community.
While older establishments may have faded, the spirit of inclusivity remains. The upcoming opening of The Byrd Cage marks a significant moment, aiming to be Atlantic City's first full-service LGBTQ+ bar and restaurant in two decades. Plans include a piano lounge and entertainment, signaling a vibrant new chapter.
This development highlights the ongoing growth and recognition of the LGBTQ+ community in Atlantic City, mirroring the broader societal shifts towards greater acceptance and celebration.